We had originally intended on doing a
three-day safari at the Kapama Reserve near Kruger National Park (have you seen
the recent YouTube sensation ‘Battle at Kruger’, lions battling crocodiles for
a young wildebeest?), but as the price continued to climb toward $8k for the
four of us, we abandoned the ludicrous idea in favor of a one-day mini safari
closer to Cape Town. Our 2.5 hour drive in the nicest tour bus to date
(bathroom and all!) progressed through the seemingly endless townships of the Cape
Flats, then climbed above toward a tunnel through a mountain range, the first
of many in the Cape Fold region (strikingly similar to the Basin & Range of
Nevada). Coming out the other side of this first tunnel we immediately saw a
family of baboons along the highway, the mother repeatedly pushing one of the
babies off the asphalt back into the dirt, clearly trying to teach him/her
about the woes of automobile vs. primate encounters.
Our tour guide for the day was a white
South African, a self-described middle-class guy in a country with virtually no
middle class, statistically speaking. He was obviously very well-read, and knew
minute details about geology, biology, geography, climate, you name it, he
described it, though we did need to press him a bit to address the cultural and
sociological aspects of South Africa that we were particularly interested in.
As we drove through valley upon valley
of vineyards, he addressed the housing issues of the workers in this non-urban
area of South Africa, showing us the small structures built for them here and
there, dispersed throughout a given winery’s land to allow the laborers to work
different fields. Although historically the landowners provided places to live
for the laborers (as did slave-owners in the U.S.), once they were too old to
work they were released with nothing to their names, left to go find a place to
live, presumably in one of the urban areas where there were more people. The
‘Dob’ (not sure of spelling) system that had been in place for decades dictated
that what little salary they ‘received’ was split evenly between cash and wine
product, an insidious practice leaving the black and coloured populations to
drink, rather than eat, what should have been food for them to subsist on. This
sickening system was finally abolished in 1995, after which the Land
Restitution ‘paybacks’ required the landowners to allow the workers to continue
living on premises after they ‘retired’. Some of the owners have started
building schools for the children of the laborers, although the quality of the
education in these rural areas remains dubious, if nearly non-existent.
Although both the political will and the
land is there to try to rectify only some of the wrongs of apartheid through
this Land Restitution Act, the funding is not. For example, the homes that I
previously described as being slowly built in the District Six area remain
largely unoccupied, as for some inane reason the government will not allow
loans on the properties. In order to take possession of one of these homes, a
person who has presumably been stuck living in a township for decades would
have to put up ~35,000 rand in cash (approximately 25% the property’s value).
While that might seem like a fairly good deal on paper, the realities of the
people displaced by the leveling of District Six dictate the scenario to be
wholly untenable, once again, the classic chicken-and-egg conundrum. When
people’s names come up in what is essentially a ‘lottery’ system, they
routinely have to forfeit their place in line for the home that the government
as much as promised them during the initial democratic elections in the 90’s. Now,
multiply that by the 1.2 million Capetonians who literally live in shacks. I
just can’t fathom how the government see this as a viable long-term solution to
the grim housing issues facing the country.
Oh yeah, the safari! We finally arrived at
Inverdoorn Reserve, and shortly thereafter boarded our LandRover-like vehicles,
holding 12 to 16 persons each. We first visited the cheetahs, five or six of
which were camped out on a little hillock, moving around from place to place,
seemingly unbothered by our presence. We continued on and saw giraffes, zebra
(by the way, it ‘zed’ here, not ‘zee’, and they have no idea what a zee-bra is,
but are quite familiar with ‘zeh-bruhs’), oryx, ostrich, some horned things I
don’t recall the name of, and one Springbok, fitfully displaying the source of
it’s name, running at high speed, with the occasional impressive leap. Our
guide took us into the lion’s area, though we were given very specific
instructions and warnings, as the big male lion ‘Robbie’ had been rescued from
a 3x4m pen a few years ago. Due to his hostile environment, it’s assumed that
he could turn on a human in a flash, though our guide said that lions in the
wild could be safely approached to ten or so meters. We also saw Cape Buffalo
(the most dangerous animal in Africa), and were nearly charged by one of the
rhinos while the guide gunned our LandRover into the bush, rapidly leaving the doubltrack
‘road’ in deference to not getting a horn through a quarterpanel.
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Cheetahs amongst wildflowers; our guide said they'd never seen wildflowers like this in this area. |
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The classic zebra. |
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The classic giraffe. |
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A couple of classic Cape Buffalo. |
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This rhino started to charge, but aborted as our guide swerved the LandRover off the road, trying to avoid some horn-related disaster I'd rather not imagine. |
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The classic ostrich; there were babies nearby, but the pics weren't too impressive (they blend in quite well). |
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The classic Oryx. |
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Can't remember the name of this turtle, but there aren't many of them. |
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They get sniped by hawks and eagles, taken for a ride to altitude, then dropped to their fate. Apparently birds of prey are lazy when it comes to wrestling turtle meat from the shell. |
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Robbie the lion, as good a view as I got with a 70-200/4 + 1.4x teleconverter. |
They served us a wonderful lunch, then we were off
back to the Cape, $7k richer for our rather compressed experience of African
wildlife.
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