After hearing from various people about the top of
Table Mountain, we decided to take the Red Line of the city bus tour that stops
at the base of the tramway, and loops around Lion’s Head to Camps Bay Beach,
our afternoon destination. The bus ticket was good to get on/off at any stop,
and included a recorded tour of the history of the city environs. The downtown
area is much like many cities, much cleaner than either Casablanca or Accra,
and was largely built on an area reclaimed from the sea by the Dutch, given
their extensive experience with raising the land, ultimately building on areas
formerly below sea level. I’m no linguist, but listening to people speak
Afrikaans, it is clearly rooted in Dutch, though other languages have had their
effects as well.
The scar that is District Six. |
Demonstrations by the displaced residents continued in the leveled District Six area, so long that the government eventually abandoned plans to re-develop the site, leaving the land a bleak scar of nothingness amongst various other townships and buildings. That scar exists to this day, and is now manifested by a strip of grassland, one side of which some government housing is slowly being built, though an alarming few have been finished and occupied. Tens of thousands of people were physically removed from their homes, loaded onto buses and dumped into an area with virtually no resources nor infrastructure capable of supporting them. Positively unthinkable in this day and age (at least in the U.S.), as far worse things are currently happening in other parts of Africa that SAS chooses not to visit for obvious reasons.
Leaving the stark reminder that District Six
represents for the rather touristy Table Mountain Cable Car is such an odd
thing. Within 10 minutes we were at the base of an incredibly beautiful
mountain, a geologic attraction that rapidly rises more than 5,000’ above Cape
Town. The relief is very similar to the Owens Valley in the Sierra Nevada
range, though it’s even steeper, an impressive sight from any direction. Table
Mountain is what sets Cape Town apart from most other areas of Africa, and is
truly impressive. The rotating cable car (I’d call it a tram) took about 3
minutes up the 4000’ climb, the top of which is extremely steep, rising at a 45
degree pitch or more. The top was beautiful; you could see trails everywhere
down below, with incredible views all around. We had a great African lunch, then
headed down to continue on the bus to Camps Bay Beach.
The top of Table Mountain. |
The top of the cable car, Lion's Head down below (you can see the trail we took to the top). |
A twenty minute drive downhill found us at Camps
Bay Beach, surrounded by locals and tourists alike, enjoying the fine weather.
Notoriously windy with typically cold water, the fine white sand beach is
beautiful, with the backdrop of the Twelve Apostles of Table Mountain looming
above. The boys played in the frigid waters, dug some holes in the sand,
typical kid stuff at the beach. We walked the road along the beach, lined by
dozens of cafes and sidewalk vendors, then decided to catch the 5:40 bus back
toward the waterfront.
Camps Bay Beach. |
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